And now for something completely different, (at least for a hat blog)
I'm working on an Elizabethan dress based on this portrait. (Don't worry, I'll be making the hat too)
Why, you might ask? To have something on which to showcase the awesome sparkly ouches and the girdle belt and Carcanet necklace :) of course. I estimate that with the jewelry and all, this will use about eighty of them. First, I have to make it, though.
I've made great progress working on the bodice, including a sweet little upper sleeve puff with a zillion little darts in it and persnickety little pickadills.
In fact - it was SO much fun, I made this process poster thing showing the steps I used to find the sleeve pouf pattern.
This sortof got my documentation bug going, and also got an enthusiastic response from fellow costumeI promised that I would document the process I used when I made the slashed and bedecked undersleeves. Without further ado, here is
The Slashed Sleeve Process
I drafted two sleeve patterns, one that is the base shape of a very straight, pretty boring sleeve, with no puffs, and another that is exactly the same, but four inches longer. (I had done a sample of the slashes in order to find out the ratio of the larger sleeve to the smaller, which is how I came up with the four inches larger.)
On both sleeve patterns, I marked and notched the horizontal lines for the rows of trim and the spaces that I would slash, but it turned out that I only needed them on the larger pattern, and even on that, I used the ruler rather than my notches for the sake of precision.
My assumption that the slashes needed to be on the bias was proven to be true by the samples I did, but I wanted the slashes to appear vertical, so I cut the entire outer satin sleeve layer on the true bias. (This one is the larger pattern.)
|Back side of satin sleeve - with grid all marked.|
I cut out the smaller base sleeve layer from cotton drapery lining, which was thin but quite papery/stiff. This layer, I cut on the straight grain, like a regular sleeve.
On the satin side, I pinned the first row of the trim through both layers of sleeve, just below the first row of slits.
I then pinned the sleeve seam, matching the rows of trim carefully, stitched the sleeve seam, and pressed the seam allowance open.
Here's the current state of the sleeve. Next, it will get little satin pickadills at the cuff, and then get a smooth, thin lining, and be otherwise treated like any other sleeve.
The entire process took three and a half hours (not bad, really!)
Now? I will go to bed.